FORMULATION OF CREAM BODY SCRUB ETHANOL EXTRACT OF MORINGA LEAF (Moringa oleifera Lam.) - WHITE RICE (Oryza sativa L.): VARIATION OF CONCENTRATIONS TWEEN 80 - SPAN 80 Mareta Venti Kusuma Setyorini, Triyadi Hendra Wijaya, Beti Pudyastuti
Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Health Sciences, Jenderal Soedirman University
Abstract
Premature aging is one of the most common skin problems caused by free radicals. The ethanol extract of Moringa leaves (Moringa oleifera Lam) contains flavonoid compounds which function as natural antioxidants to counteract free radicals. Body scrub cream is a skin care cosmetic product that is widely used. White rice (Oryza sativa L.) as a abrasive material which functions to remove dead skin cells and open pores so that the skin becomes brighter and whiter. This study aims to determine the effect of different concentrations of Tween 80 and Span 80 on the physical properties of body scrub cream, to obtain the optimum formula and to find out which formula is most preferred based on the hedonic test. Moringa leaves were extracted by maceration method, then made into a body scrub cream with a combination of Tween 80 and Span 80. Formula optimization was carried out by the simplex lattice design method. Body scrubs were made of 8 formulas with variations of Tween 80 and Span 80 F1 (1:10), F2 (10:1), F3 (3,25:7,75), F4 (7,75:3,25), F5 (10:1), F6 (5,5:5,5), F7 (1:10), F8 (5,5:5,5) using the emulsification method. Test responses include pH, viscosity, spreadability, and adhesion. Determination of the optimum formula is carried out by analyzing equations and contour plots for each response to obtain the highest desirability value. The results of the evaluation of body scrub cream on organoleptic tests on all homogeneous formulations with the M/A emulsion type, have a light brown color, smell of roses, and the consistency is from slightly thick to thick. Variation of Tween 80 and Span 80 of each formula significantly affects pH, viscosity, spreadability, and adhesion. The optimum formula results obtained are Tween 80 of 7.75% and Span 80 of 3.25%, with a desirability value of 1,000. The formula has a pH prediction point of 6.06, a viscosity of 16727.25 cps, a spreadability of 5.18 cm, and an adhesion of 40.24 seconds. The results of the hedonic test showed that F3 body scrub cream was the most preferred by respondents in terms of color, aroma, texture and scrubbing power. The composition of Tween 80 and Span 80 in the formula has an influence on the physical properties of body scrub cream. The optimum formula for body scrub cream is a formula with the composition of Tween 80 7.75% and Span 80 3.25% with physical properties that meet the requirements. The results of the hedonic test showed that the F3 body scrub cream was most preferred with a composition of Tween 80 of 3.25% and Span 80 of 7.75%.